Valsaín y la Sierra de Guadarrama

Lejos relumbra la piedra

del áspero Guadarrama.

Agua que brilla y no suena.

 

Canción de las tierras altas, Antonio Machado. 

Hay áreas en nuestro cerebro en las que imágenes y sonidos se entrecruzan y mezclan, se hacen inseparables. En ellas las imágenes evocan sonidos y los sonidos imágenes. La imagen nos informa; el sonido nos sugiere.

La naturaleza tiene su propia banda sonora, una composición formada por el viento y las aguas, los ecos, las voces de los animales, las actividades de los paisanos en el paisaje. La naturaleza se cuenta muy bien a sí misma por medio de sus sonidos. Lo que sigue son tres recorridos, tres asomos al paisaje sonoro del valle de Valsaín. 

 

Aguas tuertas del arroyo de Regajos Fríos, Majada Hambrienta.

Solsticio de verano. La noche es oscura, estrellada. La luna aún tardará varias horas en salir, aunque un resplandor la anuncia hacia el este, por detrás de la loma de Peñalara.

No corre una gota de aire, ni brisa que sacuda hoja alguna. Silencio y quietud, sólo matizado por el murmullo de las aguas retorcidas del arroyo de Regajos Fríos, hermano de nacimiento del Peñalara, y los ocasionales arranques de unas ranas, comunes y de San Antón. Croan a lo lejos, desde los tremedales.

A media distancia un cárabo –los oídos y los ojos de un búho- lanza unos gañidos agudos. Debe ser una madre que, subida a las ramas altas de un pino, avisa a sus pollos de la presencia de un extraño.

Pronto los pollos olvidan toda cautela y empiezan a chillar, con unos gritos arrastrados, agudos, plañideros. Unos grillos estridulan sin mucha convicción; la noche está fresca. Un crujido pasa por encima, como el rastro de un moscardón, y le sigue otro. El primero, un insecto de gran tamaño que pasa zumbando, quizá un coleóptero, un ciervo volante. El segundo, más grande, un chotacabras europeo, ave de la noche que silba, ronronea y palmetea con las alas mientras cuartea su territorio, un claro del bosque confinado entre matas de pinos y robles.

Siguen los pollos hambrientos. Ahora a media distancia ulula otro cárabo, seguramente el padre. Y el ululato anuncia que, por el momento, no hay comida.

Entre la vegetación, cerca, se oyen unos chasquidos. Un animal de gran tamaño pisotea, rompe las ramas caídas. Es un corzo que lanza un ladrido bronco, abierto. Pero la voz que rompe el silencio del bosque no es una voz de alarma; el animal no huye a saltos, rompiendo la maleza, sino que empieza una serie de llamadas, distintas, como explorando varios registros, mientras camina y describe un arco. Se trata de un macho en celo, aquerenciado desde hace días a este claro de hierba y helechos, que se asoma así al celo. Con estos bramidos desafía a otros machos, intenta seducir a alguna hembra.

Los ladridos se extienden durante un largo rato, hasta que el corzo calla y se aleja, tranquilo, a recuperar fuerzas y ganas en alguna vega fresca.

La ladra de los corzos marca el comienzo del verano en la Sierra. Mientras, el cárabo no ha parado de ulular. Ni los pollos de pedir.

 

Las horas del cuco

Pinares en el curso del arroyo de Peñalara 

En verano, en  cualquier arboleda, a cualquier hora del día, la voz lejana del cuco marca el paso de las horas.

1. Mucho antes del amanecer, cuando la luz empieza a clarear, en la atmósfera del bosque resuenan las llamadas del día. El cuco está entre los primeros, pero no es el único. Junto a él canta un mirlo, estalla un chochín, parlotea un petirrojo.

La voz del cuco no siempre se ajusta a su nombre. A veces la doble nota se convierte en una rápida carcajada.

2. A media mañana el cuco canta desde una mata de robles, un paisaje cerrado. Suena la doble nota, intercalando pausas de silencio, acompañada por todo el elenco forestal y los primeros grillos y saltamontes, que templan los élitros con el aire ya tibio de la mañana. Por encima de las copas, en vuelo coronado, maúlla un ratonero. Y desde las profundidades del bosque llega la llamada de un azor.

3. El sol empieza a declinar hacia el oeste. Aún queda mucho para la noche, pero en el bosque la actividad se acelera. Grazna una corneja. La llamada del cuco siempre engaña; resuena y parece una declamación desde la distancia, pero en realidad es mucho más suave y el  ave, aún estando muy cerca, parece lejana. El cuco, siempre burlándose de quienes le escuchan.

4. La verdadera hora del cuco. Anochece, el bosque es una sombra. Ahora sí, los grillos rascan a conciencia con las alas. Y un cuco asoma en la distancia. En un claro del bosque se acerca la silueta de una becada volando en círculos sobre las copas, recortada contra el cielo negro e iluminada por la luna. Y todo con la letanía burlona del cuco resonando a nuestra espalda.

Tormenta de verano

Laguna de Peñalara

Fuera de los límites exactos del valle de Valsaín, las aguas de la sierra manantial caen ahora del cielo y se remansan en la laguna de Peñalara. Pero la lluvia no viene con discreción. El rayo dura un instante, pero el eco del trueno se estira valle abajo.

Por encima de los 2000 metros una tormenta adquiere una dimensión inquietante. Y más si se produce sobre un recuenco, una gran cámara de resonancia hecha de piedra. La exhalación del rayo produce el primer chasquido, pero la violenta onda de choque rebota contra las paredes de roca, se amplifica contra la lámina de agua y rellena todo el espacio.

El estampido del trueno, un eco en estado puro, sale del circo de la laguna y se desborda valle abajo. Cada retumbo, cada quiebro del sonido, se produce al reflejarse contra una nueva pared, contra una discontinuidad del terreno. El trueno rellena el espacio y hace un dibujo sin líneas del alto Guadarrama.

 

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